I went to Khon Kaen, one of the few cities in Thailand's northeast province known as Isaan, in December 2003. It was my first-ever "mommy trip", as I've come to call them, to celebrate Alec becoming fully weaned and my body becoming completely my own again.
(Of course Alec developed a high fever and diarrhea during the trip, and demanded the boob upon my return, which led to another several weeks of nursing before I called it quits and we officially re-weaned.)
A "mommy trip" is a 2-night solo get-away for the mommy, during which I might embark on an adventure (Angkor Wat in Cambodia, April 2004 with Corinna -- we both got dysentery), try someplace new but tourist-friendly (Luang Prabang in Laos, October 2004 with Angela and Margaret -- damn those roosters who crowed all night!), or just completely veg out (Ko Samui, June 2005 by myself -- reading on the beach, reading by the pool, reading in bed, etc.). The trips help me re-charge for parenting and sate the wanderlust that's otherwise mashed down and thwarted by caring for munchkins. I feel lucky to be able to go.
Why Khon Kaen? Because Stacia, Nathan's nursery school teacher at the time, had won a voucher for two nights' stay in a junior suite at the Sofitel in Khon Kaen. She offered it to me after deciding that there was zero chance of her ever finding herself in Isaan, much less before the voucher expired. Most people probably respond similarly and never end up going, so the Sofitel seemed rather surprised when I called to book: Yes, I'll take you up on the offer to stay in a posh junior suite in the middle of absolutely nowhere...
In fact, during the three days I wandered around Khon Kaen (a pleasant and walkable small city, no less), everybody kept asking me, Are you here on business? No? Then why [on earth, you weirdo farang] did you pay good money to fly up here?! Apparently a major draw to Khon Kaen for farang is the matchmaking industry. Women from the sticks register with an agency that tests them for HIV and STDs, interviews them and then arranges/chaperones meetings with prospective farang suitors. My hotel hallway neighbour turned out to be one such fellow: an earnest acupuncturist from L.A., a bit long in the tooth and shy of disposition, R. had grown weary of the superficial chicks back home who never gave him the time of day. He was halfway through his week's worth of meetings but hadn't yet met anyone even remotely like the dream girl he'd fantasized about on the trip over. But who knows what transpired during his week's second half, after we last chatted? All he needed was one person to click with. R. was kind and pleasant; I'm optimistic that his trip proved to be worth the effort.
This little shrine was so charming. I loved all the animals paying homage to the spirits believed to inhabit this specific spirit house.
Ya gotta love the paper Christmas tree, dappled with fake snow, incorporated into an Isaan liquor store display. You think they'll have a white Christmas this year?
This must be one holy tree. So many people consider this spot sacred that their generous offerings, eagerly piled up to impress and appease the resident spirits, seem at first glance to be simply a pile of crimson rubbish.
Nice Blog.
I treaked over from Ian's blog to take a peak. You've made the bookmarks! You were right about those kids, super cute. Best of luck. TP.
Posted by: Tregen | August 24, 2005 at 12:01 AM
Nice blog Lyle - I recognized your writing style immediately. Nice way to reconnect old acquaintances - hope to catch up at some point. CV
Posted by: Cameron | August 24, 2005 at 10:09 PM